Christian Tschida is one of Austria’s most respected natural winemakers, based in Illmitz on the eastern side of Lake Neusiedl in Burgenland. Working with around 14 hectares of organically farmed vineyards, Tschida has gained cult status for his uncompromising low-intervention philosophy and elegant, terroir focused wines. The vineyards are planted on a mix of limestone, schist and gravel soils, with the moderating influence of the lake helping preserve freshness in the warm Pannonian climate. Farming is organic and biodiversity focused, with no herbicides or synthetic chemicals used. In the cellar, wines are made with minimal sulphur, no fining or filtration and a strong emphasis on patience and gentle handling. The 2023 vintage produced particularly vibrant wines with excellent acidity and mineral precision.
Laissez Faire 2023 is made from 100% Riesling, a relatively uncommon variety in Burgenland but one that thrives in Tschida’s mineral rich vineyard sites. The grapes are hand-harvested and fermented with indigenous yeasts before ageing in large old oak barrels for around one year. The wine is bottled without fining, filtration or added sulphur, staying true to the estate’s natural philosophy. It shows intense aromas of lime zest, white peach, green apple and herbs, alongside smoky mineral and saline notes. The palate is precise yet textural with electric acidity and a long, stony finish. It is drinking beautifully now but has the balance to evolve over the next 8 to 10 years. It pairs especially well with shellfish, raw fish dishes, alpine cheeses and vegetable based dishes. The wine has received significant acclaim in the natural wine world, with critics praising its “remarkable finesse, tension and mineral complexity.”