Château Montgrand-Milon Pauillac 2016

Château Montgrand-Milon has a remarkable history for a relatively little-known Pauillac. The estate was once part of the Château Latour domain before the Peyronie family acquired it in the early 20th century, subsequently rebuilding its holdings from parcels around the appellation. Today, its vineyards lie among some of Pauillac’s most prestigious properties, including Latour and Mouton-Rothschild. The vines average over 50 years old and are planted at high density on gently sloping gravel and sandy soils, with a north-west exposure and the moderating influence of the Gironde.

The 2016 is an 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot blend, harvested by hand and fermented in stainless steel before 12–15 months in French oak, of which only around 15% is new. This restrained élevage leaves the old-vine fruit and Pauillac character at the forefront. Blackcurrant, blackberry and plum are joined by cedar, graphite, tobacco leaf and dried herbs, while bottle age has brought greater savoury detail and integration. Firm but polished tannins give the wine shape, with fresh acidity carrying a long, dry finish. A particularly impressive vintage for a property with considerably more history and pedigree than its modest profile suggests.